This page has been reviewed for accurate pricing on January 2013, and will be honoured until end of December 2013

The galleries are all below....please scroll down past the table of contents and stuff.
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Table of Contents

Page one....Table of contents, and an introduction to armour on this site, pricing notes and so forth. Breast and backplates single, double and triple piece suits and their prices.

Page one (supplementary) examples of various suits, lady armour, anime armour, (a sort of archive of work I have done in the past.) (Careful though, prices in the archive may be out of date.  However if you are seriously planning to have me make an armour, you should oughta check me out!  Go here ...and do just that!)

Page two...Gorgets, Spaulders, and variations on them.

Page three...Basket Hilts, Gothic elbow cop, vambrace and full arms.

Page four...Articulated elbow cops and full arms.

Page five...Gauntlets, Half gauntlets, goatskin and deerskin gloves.

Page six...Greaves, articulated legs, single piece English style elbow cops

Page seven...Cuisses, hinged and plain.  Articulated Leg Armour, single piece and articulated knee cops.

Page eight....Fur cloaks, sheepskins, gambesons, aketons, shields.
 
 

Pricing

          All required strapping and lacing is included in the price...that is to say, two robust buckles over the shoulders and buckles on the sides.   Faulds are laced onto the breastplates, and tassets are laced onto the faulds unless you want to pay extra for straps. (roughly 12 bucks extra per buckle and strap)
          Sliding rivets may replace any strap at no charge. Note that straps provide better mobility.
         All breast and back plates are hammer rolled at the neck and arm hole openings as standard features.
         Some variation on the basic patterns are easily accomodated without extra charge....for instance, changing the top edge of a 2 or 3 piece breastplate from plain to scalloped edges, or I could build you a custom tasset from your fax drawing. Since the whole look of the armour can change according to how the tassets look, this would be a good way to customize your armour without paying big customizing fees.
         You can upgrade to handmade forged buckles at  22 dollars extra each, specify brass or forged steel.
         Although I am based in Canada, US orders are shipped  from Ogdensburg, New York, and any returns must be done in the US.
        Further shipping and payment options are available HERE.
        Prices may change without notice, the Candian price rules, the US price might fluctuate a bit depending upon international currency prices.    Credit card orders are processed in Canada, and will be done in Canadian Dollars.  This is generally favorable to US customers.  I use this currency converter..............   http://www.oanda.com/convert/classic?user=WilliamFedun   (Keep an eye on your bank statement though... sometimes your bank's currency conversion is a little different!)

  Sizing your armour

(right click on the above image and go to "save as", print it out, fill in the blanks, and fax it to me at 613-821-9947)

Vocabulary of the Armourer

A dictionary of armour....Milanese style Equestrian armour diagram from Arms & Armor of the Medieval Knight by David Edge & John Paddock. ISBN 0-517-64468-1. Excellent book on history and construction of armour. Click the picture to see larger and complete view. This is the nomenclature used on this web site.  See note 1 at bottom.

Hot rolled steel...a mill blackened metal, looks quite authentic, available in 16 and heavier gauge only.
Cold rolled steel,...shiny  metal, what you normally see in a museum.
Gauge sizes....the usual gauge we use is American Wire Gauge, known as AWG.  It works like this...how many pieces do you stack up to make an inch.  Clearly, 16 gauge would be heavier than, say, 20 gauge.  Suggested gauges would be 18 for parade and parts you want to keep light, 16 gauge for combat.  18 is normally good enough if you don't mind banging the dents out every week, and was most common back in the day.  16 gauge tends to be a little clumsier looking,  harder to work and therefore a little more expensive up front. Helmets should never be lighter than 14 gauge.
Picadills....leather chaff guards on armour...prevents the metal from scratching itself .  I expand their use to protect men and horses from sharp edges and corners as required.
Two piece or three piece suit...how many pieces make up the breastplate.  Normally, the more pieces, the more flexibility, and easier to make.  (that is to say, more pieces get you cheaper armour, to a point)
Points (arming points) ... laces which hold the armour into place. Sometimes attached to a gambeson.  Often fancy aiglettes are attached to the ends of points...they can be decorative elements in their own right.
Gambeson....the padded suit you wear under your armour to prevent chaffing and armour "bites".
Lames...small pieces added to the edge of an armour to allow for flexibility.
Articulation...the movement of lames past each other....to allow for flexibility.
Blueing....the art of colouring the armour with torches or chemicals to make it blue-black, perhaps purplish.
Fluting....A stiffening ridge in the armour, often more decorative than otherwise.
Strap Work....decorative ends on leather straps 
Leathering....the interior leather on armour which holds it all together.  Leather stretches, rots, tears, and needs replacement regularly, so it behooves you to learn how to replace it.  Fitting problems are often resolved by re-leathering. 
Keepers...those little leather or metal loops which keep the ends of the belts from flopping around.
SCA approved...meets or exceeds minimum armour standards of the Society for Creative Anachronism
AEMMA approved...meets or exceeds minimum armour standards of  the American European Military Marshal Arts society
CJF approved...meets or exceeds minimum armour standards of the Canadian Jousting Federation

There, now that THATS out of the way...we can proceed on to the galleries...

       This design is pretty much what Joan of Arc (played by Mila Javovich) wore in the movie "The Messenger", except she wore a chain mail shirt instead of the upper breastplate, as you can see in the pictures below. Please see note 2 at the bottom.  (With predicable results...the chain didn't deflect that arrow!)  Chain would cost extra....of course.

(And a couple more here, here and here for those Mila fans who can't get enough!)

The part of this armour which people often don't like is the buckle in front.  It can go from the plackart to the gorget (as in the picture of Mila above) or it can attach to the upper part of the breastplate.  A sliding rivet can replace the buckle at no extra cost.

12d
Three Piece Gothic Cuirass


three piece gothic cuirass

(my inspiration for the above three piece armour)

Below is the armour I made for Jason in the summer of '04.  It has a three piece back plate as well as the three piece breastplate and I used straps on the sides instead of the more usual laces.  Notice the deeply dished lower plates which are so similar to the 2 piece breast plate, the keepers over the shoulders, and the leather pads at the top of the breast and backplate.  Also the front is plain, single pointed instead of triple pointed like in the sample above.  click HERE to see a pic of this armour all put together.

Jason's armour
like me, Jason has some ballast which I make look good.

Korey's armour....a little fancier
note the picadills...those leather rub strips which protect the armour
click on the above pics to seem them full size

From the back, this armour looks really spiffy.   Looks not so bad...and it gives the wearer a lot of mobility and freedom.  

three piece back plate
w. Maltese style shoulder flutes

         Below is the armour I made for Brent in the summer of 2011.  Click on any of the below pictures to enlarge.

   

Brent's Three Piece 18 gauge Larping Armour

This armour is a fairly standard back plate but Brent wanted a more developed fauld, with sliding rivets in the front instead of a strap.
The faulds are a bit longer...he wanted a full ten inches, which necessitated an extra lame.
As an interesting variation, I put the buckles on the breast plate instead of on the back plate so that he can
get into and out of this armour by himself.





The buckles we chose for him were solid brass one inch harness buckles on buffalo hide belts.
These are standard unless otherwise specified


 

And the tassets were repousse'd "Wakefield" style.
They cost a bit extra...20 inches of repousse @ 5 bucks an inch.
You can see the leather "keepers" and the tongue underneath
 to protect his body from the corners

note 1.  Please also see "beautiful iron's" web site here for more diagrams in different languages...http://www.beautifuliron.com/armour_diagrams.htm

note 2. My research seems to indicate that her costumer's configuration of this quite lovely suit was perfectly period.  Here is a pic from her web site....http://www.millaj.com/film/joan.shtml which shows the armour really nicely.  This armour is so well made and so accurate I just had to show it here.

note 3.  The Milanese style was called a "splinted" armour and was not made like this at all.  Click here to see the difference.